Sleepover With My Korean Host Sisters During Korea's Foundation Day!

My adorable sister Seo Yeon, whose cuteness, adorableness, and mannerisms remind me so much of Emily.

Thanks to Korea's Foundation Day, we have a three-day weekend to do as we please! I made plans to see the Kim Family and spend some quality time with my first host parents and sisters. Unfortunately, my parents were headed to a couples retreat with their church so I was not able to spend time with them. However, yesterday, Friday, I met up with my sisters at the basement of Lotte Department Store and, from there, proceeded to do some "eye shopping," wandering arm-in-arm through throngs of people enjoying the Busan International Film Festival (or BIFF, for short), looking for a place to eat lunch, and finding it at a second-floor niche called Mom's Touch somewhere in Nampo-dong.

MOM'S TOUCH CHICKEN BURGER REVELATION
Immediately, I saw a fast-food counter, and fries and burgers on the overhead menu. My sisters assured me that I would love the chicken burger - which did sound good from the description. I sat down completely unprepared for this chicken thigh burger to blow my mind. It was so delicious! I couldn't believe how whole, full, real, and scrumptious the chicken tasted. I have grown accustomed to mediocre meals, especially at fast-food joints, but this experience was worth a mini review. Mini review done.

KOREAN PATBINGSU VS FILIPINO HALO-HALO

After that, Seo Yeon, Ju Hyeon and I walked around some more holding hands and making me remember what it feels like to have sisters again. We had some strawberry patbingsu for dessert at Cafe Benne (which they pronounce as Cafe Beh-neh, and not "Bean," which I thought was the correct pronunciation. If they are right, then everything I know about the world has now effectively been thrown into question).

I discovered that Seo Yeon does not like red bean, and was all too glad to eat the red bean portions of the patbingsu. For the record, though this patbingsu was delicious, it has nothing on the Filipino halo-halo, and especially Mama's Filipino halo-halo.

As you can see from the pictures, there is absolutely no comparison!

Shy Seo Yeon. We were waiting for Ju Hyeon to bring up our order of patbingsu from the first floor of Cafe Bene

View of the other stores crowding all along Nampo

My beautiful sisters!

SISTERS BEING SISTERS IN A CANDY STORE
After dessert, we went inside a store selling foreign candies and other goodies. I bought a few items for my sisters, whose looks told me they would take every item home with them if they could. Seo Yeon was so excited about everything and asked Ju Hyeon if she could buy this or that. Ju Hyeon, being the responsible older sister, would peek into the waller their mother had given her charge of and, with a grim face, solemnly shake her head, telling an increasingly sad-faced Seo Yeon, No. Another bag of gummy bears or mint chocolates was not in the budget.

I didn't know whether to laugh or cry upon seeing this mostly-silent exchange between the sisters. I grabbed the packages and plopped them down on the counter before either one of them could object (because they are fond of objecting). They were both so happy that it made my heart glad!

I am not usually one to spoil the younger generations, but this was a rare occasion.

I wish the occasion wasn't so rare though. I am missing my sisters from home and can only hope to show them love and care through what I do for my sisters here in Korea.

SEARCHING FOR THE PERFECT LIP TINT

After this, we went inside tens of cosmetic stores looking for the perfect lip tint. Seo Yeon and Ju Hyeon have flawless, porcelain skin, so they were not interested in powders or foundations, blushes or bronzers. For extra special occasions, such as days when they're not in school, they will tint their lips and put on circle contact lenses.

 

WATCHING BEGIN AGAIN AT LOTTE CINEMA

We went to Lotte Cinema and watched Begin Again with Keira Knightly. This was not necessarily my cinematic cup of tea, but seeing as how the last movie we saw (a thriller set on a hijacked airplane) practically scarred poor Seo Yeon, I remained quiet as they chose the movie. Like the burger place, I was pleasantly surprised to enjoy this movie! I left the theater wanting to write music, play an instrument, and sing, sing, sing!

DRINKING BUBBLE TEA RUSSEL'S TREAT
We met up with Russel around 10 p.m. and, half-asleep, sipped on bubble tea that he insisted on treating the girls to. They are usually very shy, but their shyness slowly melted because of his easy humor.

We took the bus home, and the girls ordered chicken(!) for more movie-watching. I was practically asleep on the living room floor so I warned the girls that I might not be able to stay awake through the whole movie, and I was so full from our various meals, desserts, and snackings that I also objected to having any part of the chicken.

ORDERING A MIDNIGHT SNACK OF CHICKEN
However, when the girls opened the lid containing the freshly-delivered chicken, all of my protestations melted into nothingness. I dove right in, rekindling my life-long love affair with chicken.

WATCHING RATATOUILLE UNTIL 3 IN THE MORNING
The girls settled on watching the 2007 animated film Ratatouille, which I was sure I was going to have to endure for the girls' sake. However, at three in the morning, I was the only one still awake, inspired to cook up magic in the kitchen, and chuckling to myself in the dark living room - the girls having long fallen asleep on various uncomfortable-looking positions around me.

I woke up first and relished in the quiet of my first home here in Korea. I have grown to love my second home, but often think of this place and this family and the love they showed me all of last year and even until now. It feels incredible to be reconnected.

Seo Yeon told me last night that Mom was so pleased with the photo album I gave them as a gift that she can often be seen flipping through the book, admiring each image page by page, and sighing over what a talented photographer and awesome daughter I am. [Insert happy sigh and what remains of my melting heart here].

The Last Week of My Grant Year | Friday's Milmyeon Lunch & Coffee Date with Teachers

Today was my last Friday at school. After teaching my morning classes, the teachers in the gyomushil decided to take me out to lunch at this apparently famous milmyeon place in our very own island (it won an award for serving up awesomeness a few years back)! The restaurant is small, but it had a long line all the way down the sidewalk. I was surprised to have never eaten here before considering the place was only a few steps away from my host family's apartment.

A hidden gem. We chowed down, and I was legitimately smitten. 

Chinese teacher and English teacher

Some seriously good Korean noodles. It was a hot day so the cold bowl of icy noodles was just what I needed to feel refreshed!

This is the restaurant in case you want to come to Yeongdo and experience this magic for yourself

After milmyeon, we took a walk to a nearby coffee shop and, again, I was treated to my very own cup of hot caramel macchiato. 

I have been here many times but I never get tired of just letting my eyes
graze over the way the coffee shop owners have decided to decorate the place

My lovely colleagues waiting for our drinks

With a cup of coffee in each of our hands, we made our way back to where the car was parked and drove to school to continue our work. I was set to have a long day helping Stella grade a mountainous pile of entries from a recent English Essay Writing competition. She had shown me the blueprint of this competition before it was administered to the students and I was so excited for the results! I wholeheartedly agreed to dive into the grading once the student entries poured in.

We teamed up to accomplish all the reading and grading before my departure the following week. 

Drinking the rest of my coffee while reading over students' entries.
This one was the Story Writing portion, which I really enjoyed due to the students' creativity and humor

At a later time, I will share some of the things the students wrote and/or drew. This kind and amount of [written] English does not happen in my classroom, so I was pleasantly surprised/ taken aback by their ability to assemble such riotously comical and heartbreaking stories in English!

To Be Continued...

First Day at Yeongdo Girls' High School | Observation Day

Today is Observation Day, so I am to head to my school and do just that: observe classes in progress. I am not to teach. However, I have been trained to expect any and all kinds of schedule changes, so I prepared my gifts for my Fulbright co-teacher, principal, and vice-principal, polished up my First Day lesson plan, and dressed for business. 

And luckily so. 

The view of the school grounds from the main entrance. There are trees, then mountains, then the ocean.

HECK YES #1: MY SCHOOL IS A MERE 10-MINUTE WALK FROM OUR APARTMENT

I walked to school with Juhyeon, my host sister (who also just happens to be one of my first year students). It has been very sunny and hot in Busan so I was soaked in just the 10-minute walk. There were students and teachers by the school gates so I copied my host sister as she gave courteous bows to every teacher we passed. One teacher was helping direct traffic, and the others were there, apparently, to check students' uniforms, shoes (sneakers), and faces (no make-up). 

HECK YES #2: MY OFFICE HAS A LEGIT VIEW OF THE OCEAN

I headed to the fourth floor, just like my Fulbright co-teacher had instructed me the day before, and met her in an air-conditioned room overlooking trees, mountains, and the ocean. 

INTRODUCING MYSELF TO THE TEACHERS

She shuffled me to the first Teachers' Meeting of the semester, where I did not understand anything that was said, except for one part where I was very clearly asked to introduce myself. I was not told this would happen but, fortunately, the previous night, I had asked my host family to help me fine tune my introductory speech in Korean. My host father was all too happy to assist me in speaking Korean and affecting a Busan accent, so I ended up impressing many of the Korean teachers with my very simple and very basic self-introduction. 

I was shuffled back to my seat. 

My school is one of three high schools on the island. It is five stories high. I occupy a desk next to my Fulbright co-teacher on the fourth floor.

INTRODUCING MYSELF TO THE STUDENT BODY

After this, my Fulbright co-teacher took me by the elbow again and led me to the main auditorium, where the entire student body was in the process of lining up and quieting down. The principal gave what I presumed to be a welcome address, and then called me on stage to give my self-introduction again. 

I said the same speech over again (though, this time, with many of the honorifics removed), much to the amazement of the students, who cheered and clapped at the end. 

PRESENTING MY GIFTS TO THE SCHOOL PRINCIPAL, V-PRINCIPAL, & CO-TEACHER

I brought UW cards with me to Korea, and used a handful of
them for my homestay and my school - an opportunity to show
some Husky pride and tell them about my beautiful campus!

After I basically introduced myself to everyone, I gave my Fulbright co-teacher her gift bag and then found the principal and the vice principal to also give them their gift bags. They smiled and thanked me - meanwhile, I was just very relieved to have passed the gift-giving hurdle with both my homestay family and my school.

This all happened within the first hour of me arriving at the school! I thought the rest of the day would be similarly busy for me, but it wasn't.

HECK NO #1: DESK WARMING FOR THE REST OF THE DAY
Everyone else was busy running around, but my Fulbright co-teacher basically deposited me in the Teachers' Office on the fourth floor, and left me there for the whole day. I was given a desk right next to hers, and I prettified this space as much as I could with the little bit of teacher stuff I had brought along with me. I was issued a laptop and promised my own copy of the first-grade English textbook.

HECK NO #2: DID NOT GET TO OBSERVE ANY CLASSES ON "OBSERVATION DAY"
Later, when I asked my co-teacher if I could do some actual observing of classes, like, perhaps, her class - she looked horrified, then embarrassed. Sheepishly, she told me that the day was very hectic for her and that she didn't want me to see her classes the way they were that day.

I nodded and sank back in my seat, letting her save face and trying to mask my disappointment with a smile. I also tried very hard not to look like I was just surfing Facebook and checking my email the whole day, which was kind of hard - since that was exactly what I did...

My school entrance

Everyone was concerned about me getting home by myself, but I assured them that since there was only one road - one straight road, I may add - there was really no way for me to get lost. I found my way back to our apartment, and discovered that I literally live right behind the school. It just takes me 10 minutes to walk because I have to circle all around to the front gate.

Overall, I was pleased with how today went. My host mom greeted me warmly when I got home, and showed concern that I was perspiring. She drew close to me and, without warning, had her hand on my forehead and neck checking my body temperature. I assured her over and over that I was fine, and just needed to cool off.

I cooled off by taking a three-hour nap.

First Full Day With My Host Family: What I Expected They Would be Like and What They Are Actually Like, Getting a Cell Phone, Dining with the Relatives

This is Yeongdo, an island district of Busan, the second largest city in South Korea!

I can't believe I'm finally out here in "real" Korea! 

WHAT I EXPECTED MY HOST FAMILY TO BE LIKE

Meeting my host family last night assured me that prayers have been answered. During the car ride to Yeongdo, my Fulbright co-teacher asked me if I was nervous to meet them. Uncharacteristically, I wasn't, so I said: 

Me: No

Co-teacher: [smiles] Really?!

Me: Yeah. I'm not nervous! But maybe later I will be?

[after a pause]

Me: You said they were very pious earlier. 

Co-teacher: Right

Me: So, I know that they're Christian, but what exactly do you mean by "very pious"?

Co-teacher: Ah! Ahm, hmmm...maybe a little more strict? I don't know. They are very good Christian family

Me: Ah! 

[after another pause]

Me: How much English do they know?

Co-teacher: Hm, I don't think they speak very well

Me: Ah...

[and I sat back in my seat, thinking, worrying]

WHAT MY HOST FAMILY IS ACTUALLY LIKE

I need not have worried. My family welcomed me with so much warmth that all anxieties I had over x and y melted away within the first night we spent together. 

My host parents have already taken to calling me their "first daughter." Due to some interpretation errors, I initially thought that my host father was a farmer, but it turns out he's a businessman who works with agricultural products. My host mother is a housewife/homemaker just like I was informed. 

I have two younger host sisters - a 17-year-old first-grade high school student in the school where I will be teaching, and a 14-year-old first-grade middle school student. Both were shy at first, but have quickly taken to translating for both sides, putting every English word they have ever learned and retained into good use. This took considerable effort on their part. After a few sentences of successful translating, they would groan deeply and slump back into their chairs complaining of a headache. Oh, poor girls...

EATING HEALTHY WILL BE EASY HERE

I slept well last night, and woke up to a day that looked like this:

My host mom prepared these delicious sandwiches for breakfast. I was already too-happy to eat these, but then she also brought up a plateful of cherries and corn. There was also a glass of banana milk involved (basically milk with a whole banana blended into it).

I had hoped and prayed and made my request known to the Fulbright office that it was not necessary, but if there happened to be a Christian family in the area who could host me for the year, that this type of living arrangement might be best for me as far as settling in and helping me maintain my faith. Maintaining my faith while in Korea is extremely important to me, so I was very pleased to hear my Fulbright Co-teacher say that she had found a very nice family for me who were Christian and who ate very healthy.

HOW MY FULBRIGHT CO-TEACHER FOUND MY HOST FAMILY
Me: Wow, how did you find them?
Co-teacher: I posted flyers about...hmmm...a month ago. Nobody answered so I started to get worried. Luckily, before you got here, a student responded to the flyer and said her family could host an ETA. 
Me: Oh, wow! Close call. Thank you for arranging all this for me.
Co-teacher: No problem. It's my job.

So, it appears that the Fulbright office does not handle the homestay (like they had said during Orientation). I understand now why the OC Team had stressed the "It Depends" mantra so much, for everything.

It really does depend! On your co-teacher (whether they are going to put in the work reading and trying to meet your preferences), and on your potential, future homestay family (whether they are interested in hosting and actually step up to the plate).

Scriptures and the cross displayed quite prominently in the living room.

DIVINE APPOINTMENTS AND APARTMENTS
Things have aligned so well that I consider myself truly blessed to have this family!

I found out by talking to one of my host sisters that their family had just moved into this apartment - guess when? - a month ago.

A month ago right around the time my co-teacher posted flyers. A month ago when I had just barely arrived in Korea. Less than a month ago, my now-host sister saw the flyer at school and brought it home with her.

Host sister: [Laughing] My Dad say we moved to apartment for you. This apartment is for you!

If there ever was a truer statement...

After my very-healthy breakfast, I got up and walked around the apartment a bit.

The welcome bouquet my school had presented to me during  yesterday's Departure Ceremony. Those blue hydrangeas...

View of the apartment complex

In the afternoon, my sisters and I went to town to meet my Fulbright co-teacher. Our mission: to get me a cellphone.

On the back of the city bus with them. Host mom gave me her bus key to use

The department store we went to

The man who convinced my co-teacher, who then convinced me, to get a smartphone. 

NAVIGATING THE CELL PHONE PURCHASE
According to them, my iPhone 4S would not work in Korea. I had attended a workshop with a former ETA who said iPhone 4S AT&Ts should work with [device I couldn't remember]. I mentioned this to my co-teacher, and she then relayed the information to the clerk, but the clerk said that it was not possible. It did not help that I couldn't remember what the device was called.

Since there is wi-fi everywhere (my homestay has wi-fi galore!), I asked the clerk for the cheapest plan and most basic phone they had, intending to only have it at hand for emergencies. After nearly three hours of communicating and calculating various projected costs, he convinced me that getting the smartphone would actually ultimately be better for reasons x, y, z.

I am now the extremely reluctant owner of a second smartphone.

It's a pretty good deal, and my phone is a beautiful piece of technology, but I felt rushed and guilted into signing the contract on the spot, which is an awful feeling that's still sitting in the pit of my stomach.

PRO TIPS FOR FUTURE ETAs: 

• Go to the store having researched different phones and plans. Preferably not the day after arriving at the homestay.
• Talk to past and present ETAs about what phone arrangements/plans they had/are getting
• Do not sign a year-long contract if you have any reservations. It is okay! You can always return to a/the store another day, and you can always make it up to your co-teacher who will have traveled with you by buying them lunch.

The top of the mall had an amazing view of the ocean and Busan and Yeongdo connected by the bridge. They also had this neat cafe that ran out of ice so we couldn't order our patbingsu.

Very relaxing atmosphere

Bridge of Busan. I'm still a bit disoriented from basically everything so I have been taking pictures of even the most boring of maps and signage to help me visualize the space I'm at now.

Love locks. 

One word: rust.

Love notes?

Some serious lockage going on here.

All the keys are thrown in here

More signage

SPENDING TIME WITH MY CO-TEACHER AND HOST SISTERS
My co-teacher chilled with my host sisters and me until early evening - even treating us for lunch. I had the check in my hand and was about to wave the waiter over when she very deftly stole the bill from me and paid for everyone's meals. I was going to put up a fight, but I remembered that this might be a cultural point with her being the oldest in our group.

Later that night, my host family very eagerly introduced me to my host mother's side of the family over a delicious dinner.

During every meal, they remember that I prefer not to eat pork (for health reasons), and have taken special care to provide me with alternative dishes.

DINING WITH HOST MOM'S FAMILY & RELATIVES

I met a couple of host mom's nephews, both of whom were extremely shy around me. Host mom's older brothers, however, were not shy at all.

One of them asked me how old I thought he was. When I guessed 45, he burst out laughing and was clearly tickled that I thought he was much younger than his actual 60 years of age. And I wasn't even trying to flatter him...He really did just look that young! 

Host cousins and host sisters enjoyed the game I played with them over dinner, which was the "How Many of the 50 U.S. States Can You Name?" game. Collectively (including the adults), they named 15 states. Not bad!

After dinner, we went back to my host parents' apartment and had generous helpings of home-made patbingsu. I am in wonderland. 

Departure Ceremony | Saying Goodbye & Heading to Meet Our Homestays

The day has finally arrived! We packed up the last of our belongings, cleared our rooms, and headed for the designated areas, where Mrs. Shim and the OCs would say a few words before our departure. 

Mrs. Shim's Departing Address was held in the TKD room, after which we spent an hour or so saying goodbye to each other. The OCs gave us our settling-in allowance to help us pay for expenses right when we arrive at our placements, and envelopes containing copies of our contracts and of the letters we were to give to our homestay families.

This is my envelope. The first line reads "Busan," the second "Yeongdo Yeoja Kodeunghakgyo," my high school's name, and, of course, my name. 

Left: With Coco, this young woman has a vision! Top: With Elaine, OC and Renewee in Daegu (close to Busan), and Bottom Right: With Tara, my beautiful roommate who will also be in Daegu!

Silliness in front of the camera with the first male ETA I saw at the airport on the way to South Korea!

There was silliness and there was a bit of sadness, too. Way to make her cry, Ray...

After a bit of time together, we finally headed up to the 11th floor auditorium where the Departure Ceremony would take place. All the ETAs lined up in special order and created a horseshoe around the auditorium enclosing an audience of Korean school administrators among staff from KAEC and the State Department.

I was doing well, smiling and embracing the pained cheeks, until they called Busan, and then my name. For some reason, I nearly forgot how to step forward. And bow. These simple tasks suddenly became very hard to perform and I was shaking a bit from nerves when a woman ran up to me from the audience and handed me a beautiful bouquet of flowers! She quickly retreated back into the audience as more names were called.

Most of the ETAs received some sort of flower arrangement from a [couple of] school official(s). There were one or two Fulbright co-teachers who, upon hearing the name of their ETA called, shouted, ran up to the auditorium, gave their bouquet to the half-stunned ETA, and proceeded to shout, and give them hearty hugs and kisses.

It was hilarious! There was one man who even showered his ETA with party poppers! I was glad to see that teachers had a sense of humor, and even more so to experience a tiny break from the formality of the whole ceremony.

My bouquet resting alongside my blazer back in the TKD room. 

After the ceremony, we had a very special lunch in a part of Jungwon University we had never been to before. We sat with our school officials (mine was my Fulbright co-teacher, my school's principal, and a man who worked for the school and was the day's driver).

We were told that awkwardness from this point on should be expected. Knowing that this would be normal helped me enjoy my meal and even emboldened me to make conversation. My Fulbright co-teacher speaks very well in English, though I do have to slow down my speech a little (which I have to do anyway even with people back in the States).

My principal, however, hardly speaks any English and was quick to express to me her desire to see me grow in my Korean language ability so that we could talk and have conversations.

I could feel my list of priorities shifting already.

I was able to gauge many life-story-type information from both my co-teacher and my principal, but later switched to asking more business/school-type information as we left Goesan and headed for Busan.

My school had rented a very spacious van for the day, and so there was plenty of room for my belongings. 

As our conversations continued, I briefly glanced to my side of the window and saw Goesan grow smaller and smaller. My school officials were very nice and accommodating. Besides the flowers, they had prepared a bag of snacks in the car and offered me things to eat all throughout the ride.

I was so glad that we had our own van and did not have to use public transportation or, worse, lug all my bags using public transportation. As it was, the man who drove us today took care of all of my bags, and even offered to carry my bouquet for me. Like I said, they were super accommodating!

A view of Yeongdo, an island in southeastern Busan, from our car. I woke up just in time to take this photo.

The ride to Busan took approximately four hours with traffic. My co-teacher was kind enough to stay with me a while longer as I met up with my host family and gave them the letter from Mrs. Shim, describing various things about the living arrangement.

My host mom prepared snacks and drinks for us to enjoy in their living room. The house was immaculately clean. It was small, but well-organized. It was easy to see that this was a Christian household, judging from the big wooden cross hanging on their wall, as well as various Bible verses in cool frames.

My host mom and my co-teacher spoke in rapid-sounding Korean as I self-consciously ate and drank sitting on the floor with both feet tucked in under me. The girls were initially shy, but quickly warmed up to me as my co-teacher told them a little bit more about me and, I'm sure, the Fulbright program, etc. The women laughed, and I laughed along with them, not knowing what it was that was amusing.

By the time my co-teacher excused herself for the evening, I was no longer nervous to be left alone with my host family. The girls - my host sisters - do not speak English very well, but can still communicate with me through miming, acting, facial expressions, etc. This was enough for me to feel more at ease with them.

In no time, we were side-by-side on their tiny piano bench playing something very basic they wanted me to learn how to play.

The girls teaming up on the piano. This reminded me a bit of my sister Christy and me and how we basically did/do everything together.

The girls Romanized their names for me, and told me that, since I was now part of the family, I was now "Mimi Kim." 

Adorable.

I was very tired from a very long day, but I found the energy to talk with my host family pretty late into the night. There was host mom, host dad, and two younger host sisters - all telling me that I look beautiful, that they like my big eyes and "small head/face" (this is a compliment in Korea, apparently). Their energy and curiosity helped me mirror the same qualities and carry on disjointed, funny conversations about, basically, anything that came to mind.

Not an easy thing, but something which we accomplished with the help of the girls, who were good at translating back and forth.

My huge bed in what I suspect is my sisters' former bedroom

I went to bed feeling very pampered by my host family, and very blessed by God for preparing such a warm and welcoming family to host me for the year in Yeongdo.

The value that Koreans place not only on education but also on family is a huge plus in my book!

How a Simple Letter-Writing Activity Partially & Temporarily Immobilized Me

Time has really sped up since we got back from Seoul. It seems the activities we have done this past week have just been fillers as we all anxiously await heading to our various placements this Friday. 

RUN THROUGH OF TOMORROW'S CLOSING CEREMONY

This morning we went over tomorrow's schedule - most importantly how we will meet the school officials from our schools. Basically, the process is very similar to the one we went through when we were given our school placements: dress up, line up, wait for name to be called, step forward, and deliver a 90-degree bow towards Mrs. Shim. 

After our names are called, we are to prolong giving our bows until we have scanned the audience in the auditorium and noted who waved, stood up, or otherwise signaled that they were our people. This is to make it easy for us to find them post-ceremony and make our introductions.

The OCs giving us a thorough run-down. Also, they had us write letters addressing our future selves!

DEAR MIMI, I HOPE THAT BY THE TIME YOU READ THIS LETTER...
Before the run-through, the OCs had us write letters to ourselves.

I got really excited when they began to hand out stationary paper and envelopes. But after writing down the date and the words "Dear Mimi," I froze up. It really hit me that, for better or worse, this letter would find its way back into my hands a few months from now.

Why was the thought of this a bit immobilizing? Because it reminded me of my goal to grow into a better human being, and it, in a way, gave me a timeline for beginning to accomplish such a task. In short, the letter asked me to be accountable to myself.

I froze because I thought of what future Mimi who hadn't grown might need to hear in a letter, and what future Mimi who had grown would want to hear. The two versions would need a different talking to, and I couldn't decide which one of me to address so I did a bit of both. As a result, my letter sounds half-chiding and half self-congratulatory!

We will see which Mimi opens this letter in the coming months...dundundun.

For our last dinner in Jungwon, they had us sit on the other side of the cafeteria, where we ate extra delicious food. 

This is the last evening we will spend in Jungwon. All of us were still dressed up from the afternoon's workshop by Tim Marshall from the State Department and basically sweated through our outfits because the entire place got so hot from our cooking!

Right after dinner, we had Trivia Night, where House Kwon finished last. The OCs still gave us a prize though thus Christina's very excited face.

Letters from Emily and Mama that I will savour reading in the coming days!

LETTERS FROM HOME

In a way, today began and ended with letters. Anthony tapped me on the shoulder during dinner and quickly deposited two envelopes on my lap. They were from Mama and Emily! This was super unexpected and, thus, all the more joy-inducing. I was so happy, I squealed - and I hardly squeal over anything! 

It's been a very good day and night, especially since these precious letters arrived just before I left for Busan. 

Seoul Day 3 | "Free Day": Shopping & Learning How to Take the Subway

The other ETAs I joined for a shopping excursion in the city

Today was spent relaxing and recuperating from a night of dancing. I woke up in time to join a few ETAs who were going out shopping, and was glad I did because I was clueless as far as getting around Seoul (or anywhere, really). Throughout the day, my friends taught me how easy the subway system here in Korea actually is. There are little details that even clueless commuters like me can appreciate - like arrows that light up pointing to the doors to take at each stop. Everything is pretty obvious and easy to discern if you know what to look for.

We shopped at American stores like Forever 21 and Macy's, which I had never even shopped at while in the U.S. but somehow gravitated towards as a sort of refuge amidst all the other stores with foreign names and signage.

Against my will, I purchased a navy blue blazer, two long-sleeved "teaching" shirts, and a tank top. (Hate it when things I grab off the racks actually fit well). Korea is the aesthetics capital of the world and appearance is everything here in terms of communicating how serious or prepared you are for a day's work. I am not a fashionista by any means, but not only do I want to teach well, I also want to look like I teach well.

Seoul Day 2 | An Afternoon Spent Touring the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ)

Another photo story treat for you all! This will be about my second day in Seoul, 

and my once-in-a-lifetime trip to North Korea (for a few minutes).

We had two tour buses pick us up in the morning. This is a photo of the restaurant we went to for lunch - included in the tour package deal. Yes, very commercial, indeed.

I fell asleep on the bus ride, and was in and out of consciousness as the tour guide explained all sorts of rich and interesting historical facts about Korean history.

After lunch, we went through several check points before being allowed to pass to the next station.

Overlooking North Korea. I climbed a million steps to get to this point and take the next few photos!

Fellow ETAs surveying the land

Our buses waiting for us downstairs

We finally arrive. There were many points where we couldn't take photos. They had designated times when we could whip out our cameras, so cherish these images, folks! I worked hard to get them.

Young American soldier stationed in South Korea. We asked them how they came to be in Korea and they shared some interesting stories - something to the effect of: ...I was just going about my business, when I was called into my boss's office, and the next day I found myself in Korea!

South Korean soldier facing the North Korean side. The soldiers looked so tense. I was curious whether or not they kept this posture all day and all night long. Later, we were told that they only go out and stand like this when there are other people around touring, like us. Whew!

North Korean soldier checking us out using binoculars. Because of the aforementioned No Photos Allowed rule, we were all unsure of whether or not we could take photos upon arriving at this point. One of the American soldiers said: Oh, go ahead. Take all the photos you want. After all, they're taking all sorts of photos of you right now."

American Soldier: See those cameras over there? Yeah, they're taking photos of all of you right now.

I could see more than three South Korean soldiers facing the North side, but only one North Korean soldier facing us.
I wonder where the other ones are hiding...

American soldiers wandering back and forth as we took photos and went inside one of the blue rooms

I thought the soldiers were old, but they are actually young - some are as young as my youngest sister, 19 years old!

North Korean soldier in full view - unusual, since he had been hiding (sort of) from behind the posts earlier.

ETAs emerging from one of the blue buildings. Blue buildings are South Korea's buildings.

Inside the blue building. We couldn't touched anything, but we could take pictures next to the soldiers.

They stood very very still. I wondered how they learn to tolerate tourists like us...

After the visit to the blue building, we went to a souvenir shop bearing all sorts of military stuff.

Also, some non-military stuff. 

What an incredible day.

While I was out during the bus rides going to and from the DMZ, I was wide awake at the actual site itself. This experience has put all the talks about the North Korean Defector program into a whole deeper context. 

My interest in borders and border crossings, as well as what happens to certain bodies as they cross these borders allowed me to see the things I was witnessing under a slightly different light. There's a lot going on here. I just have to learn how to unpack and make sense of each of them.

MY QUESTIONS FOR YOU

Would you have gone to the DMZ for a visit? Would you buy anything from the souvenir shop Why/why not? Share your thoughts in the comment box below.