Showing posts with label History. Show all posts
Showing posts with label History. Show all posts

Saturday, June 28, 2014

The War Memorial of Korea: The Korean War Room in Yongsan-dong, Seoul

TRAVELING FROM BUSAN...
It took me seven hours to travel from Busan to Seoul yesterday. My Fulbright co-teacher, awesome as usual, helped me purchase my bus and KTX tickets online, draft a travel itinerary I could follow even blind through the country, and arranged for me to leave in the middle of the school day just so I could arrive at my destination around dinnertime, (which was nice since I was leaving school before lunchtime). It would have taken me longer, but I could have done all of the travel arrangements on my own. However, there must be something either really endearing or really lost in the way I make simple, quiet inquiries because doing so seems to activate something deeply accommodating and, I would even say, motherly in Sookhee. 

If I got lost at any point on my journey, she said, I should call her. See? What did I tell you?

...ARRIVING IN SEOUL
After a bus ride (from Yeongdo to Nampo), a subway ride (from Nampo to Nopo), another longer bus ride (from Dong Seoul Bus Terminal to Kangbyeon Station), and another longer subway ride to Hongik University, I arrived in Seoul in one piece. I dropped my things off at the Orange Guesthouse before meeting a friend for dinner. He also graduated from the UW-Seattle and is now finishing up a Masters in Seoul National University - at 22. Gabrielle joined us after for drinks and conversation. It was rather late when we arrived back in the guesthouse and I knew that her goal of waking up by 6 a.m. on a Saturday was simply not going to happen. 

I was right. 

& STAYING AT A GUESTHOUSE
The white sheets that enshrouded me in my sleep were stiff. I woke up slowly, enjoying the heavily overcast daylight seeping through the cracks on the window and penetrating through the solid curtains. Gabrielle and I only bolted awake when Hope, another ETA, called to say she was on her way to the guesthouse. 

We had the Fulbright Final Dinner to attend this evening, but before then the three of us had the entire afternoon to do as we pleased in Seoul. Gabrielle suggested we visit the war memorial and, not having any strong opinion on an alternate activity, we went. Unlike Hope and I, Gabrielle is not renewing her contract and so was especially eager to see and experience as much of Korea as she could in the few days she has left (Yes, we are down to just a few more days until our contract ends!)

WAR MEMORIAL OF KOREA


"Telling the Moving Story of the People of Korea"

Opened in 1994, this war memorial exhibits and memorializes the military history of Korea on what was once the army headquarters in Yongsan-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul. Out of the six indoor exhibition rooms, we only had time to explore one. On our way to the memorial building, we passed some of the 13,000 war memorabilia and military equipment on the outdoor exhibition center. 

Here is what our day looked like:

The entrance which we actually saw after exiting the museum

This is the layout of the place we toured this afternoon.
Interestingly enough, maps don't mean much to me until after I have gone through the length of the trail. 

Children playing "feed and then scare the living daylights out of pigeons!" in the courtyard

AND NOW... LET'S FOLLOW GABRIELLE AND HOPE THROUGH THE CORRIDORS

These two look like they know where they're going

Both of them wore flats for the museum trip...unlike someone else. Lesson learned! (I think)

Natural light streaming in through this hall on our way inside the main building

Beautiful cityscape visible in between the columns as we walked

Both the U.S.A. and the Philippines were part of the UN Forces

and this is after we took a right turn. More columns - this time bearing the individual names
of brave men and women who fought in the war

Name plaques

"Our Nation Honors Her Sons and Daughters Who Answered the Call 
to Defend a Country They Never Knew and a People They Never Met" 
Source: The Monument of the Korean War Veterans Memorial, Washington, D.C., U.S.A.

This is what the inscription on the wall said. The collage is imperfect, but perfection is not the point. 

Washington State

Philippines!

A majestic ceiling with, you guessed it, more natural light pouring down on us below

Trying to take everything in
First Lieutenant Jin Du-Tae 
The museum was huge and our time was limited so we chose to explore a small segment of the

THE KOREAN WAR ROOM 1

"Invasion of the South and Counter Attack"

I am always fascinated by maps detailing the series of events that led to the division of the Korean peninsula!

Children standing over the remains (demo) of a soldier from the Korean War


Gabrielle scrolling through the timeline of the war

These were cool to see!



Families were displaced




Attesting to the awesome city that is Busan






"Stand or Die"
Busan highlighted on the map




I breezed through this exhibit room and waited for Hope and Gabrielle on a seat overlooking this view

I sat out the other two exhibits while these two finished exploring them. They left their bags with me as I read a book of essays

Heading out of the war memorial

We exited the war memorial at around 4:45 p.m., began to make our way to Hotel President, and arrived just in time for dinner. 

Friday, June 6, 2014

Day 1: Holy Joy Center Explores the Historic Park of Geoje's P.O.W. Camp

After lunch, we walked to the main road and got back on the bus - this time on our way to Geoje's "historic park" for the P.O.W. Camp that was established on the island shortly after the Korean War broke out some 60 years ago. 

AN EMOTIONALLY-TAXING EXPERIENCE

Of course I didn't know that our excursion would be on the emotionally-taxing side, but it was. There were some elements to this "historic park" that sometimes amused me but most of the time just disturbed me without clearly understanding why. I have never been a fan of reading small captions (or, I should say, other people's small captions, heh), but I read as much as I could to understand the events being portrayed in the displays. It helped that I had my own personal tour guide in the very enthusiastic David Jibsanim! We are similar in that, when we tell stories, we use our whole bodies to do the telling - complete with appropriate and dynamic sound effects. 

Here is our tour of the park in photo form. 

WELCOME TO THE P.O.W. CAMP


Our retreat, complete with a nifty sign we carted around for group photo ops such as this one!

 A photo of the entrance

Here is our group, jostling with so many others, to start our historic tour!
The flags you see ahead are those of the 16 countries that participated in the Korean War in 1950.

Memorial Fountain by the entrance where we took our group photo

 THE EXHIBITS BEGIN

Prison camp life

Seattle is, apparently, 5,700 miles yonder way!

More camp life on the island

Geoje was far enough away from the battlefield to be regarded as secure territory, according to Wikipedia

According to small captions and big signs alike, the prisoners were held in accordance to the Geneva Convention Rules


Depicting riots in the camp

I started to feel very anxious and claustrophobic going through this one exhibit
(there were many more after this that I somehow felt compelled to "experience")

Communist P.O.W.s rioting on the camp caused it to eventually become as bloody as any battlefield 
My young friend posing by a mural

Families affected by the war

 NORTH KOREAN ARMY INVADES THE SOUTH (ILLEGALLY)

Up until this point, I didn't know there was a "lawful" way to invade another country! Learning new things, learning new things...


THE LEGIT ROLE OF BUSAN DURING THE WAR


I loved these interactive maps!

David Jibsanim was very passionate about sharing Korea's history with our group (mainly me).
He recounted the events as if he had lived through it (which he did, but as a young boy)

Busan fending off the enemies




Well, hello, Philippines!

In honor of Pastor/Professor Gabriel's home country!

Good ole' America

The 16 "Friendly Countries" who fought in the war


"...Even now, the calamity of war still remains. 
The division of the Korean peninsula got far stiffer after the war and this tragic legacy is still in the bottom of all Korean's heart, engendering a bitter feeling of sorrow and regret."

Important dates



One of the more "interesting" photo zones throughout the camp





THE HORROR! THE HORROR!

is over, now that we're finally through with the tour. 
I couldn't help but breathe a huge sigh of relief when I saw these tall trees, and
joined the jibsanims for a reflective pause in our tour.

It was not all a dream, unfortunately

My church family
That was quite a day! Throughout the tour, I couldn't help but wonder, "Is this really the same Korea?" Oh, how many things have changed! History is messy and uncomfortable, but it's good to know and reflect on. This "historic park" may have been more biased and propaganda-heavy than I would have liked, but it's a stab at keeping history not only alive but interactive. Of course there are benefits as well as drawbacks to this, but that's a conversation better partaken in real life!

MY QUESTIONS FOR YOU

What did you think of Geoje's P.O.W. Camp, historic park-style? Have you visited before? Do you plan on visiting? If you were in charge of this historic park, what would you change to improve the visitors' experience? 

How important is History in your book? Share your thoughts in the comment box below!
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