Celebrating Korean Alphabet Day (or Hangeul Day) by Eating at Hurgsiru in Gijang, a Traditional Korean Restaurant Famous for Its Sulfur Duck

Holy Joy Center's English Service at Gijang posing by a 350-year-old tree!

CELEBRATING A COUPLE OF HOLIDAYS IN OCTOBER

Today, South Korea celebrates the 568th anniversary of the invention and proclamation of its extremely scientific Korean alphabet, otherwise known as Hangeul Day. I am growing quite fond of Hangeul and, without realizing it, have even begun to use this alphabet to write down notes in Visaya, Tagalog, and English. Pretty neat, I know...

Since this is a national holiday, students and teachers alike had the day off (Hooray for another holiday!). Last week featured a three-day weekend, thanks to National Foundation Day, and, though it might seem like I am getting spoiled by all these holidays, the next one is set to be on December 25th, Christmas.

NEEDING A BREAK, NEEDING A BREAK, NOT GETTING A BREAK
After what has been an emotionally-taxing last couple of weeks, I was particularly set on just staying home and relaxing. Alas, like other times, this was not to be.

While at church last Sunday, I overheard the deacons making plans for an English worship service all-day event. It was going to be a time of bonding! A time of eating! And drinking (coffee or tea)! And road tripping! It was going to be very exciting.

Except I didn't want exciting. 

I wanted relaxing. 

I didn't want to do.

I just wanted to be.

THE PERFORMANCE NEVER STOPS

Weighed down by various considerations here and back home, I was extremely reluctant for what was looking a lot like an all-day performance in affective display. I was already doing this all-day-performance-in-affective-display thing in the workplace, in front of tens of co-workers and hundreds of students, 5 times a week, and 8 hours a day; days which consisted of my thoughts crumpling past, present, and future issues into one unwieldy and likely madeopseoyo roll of kimbap. Before I turn the corner, I had forcedly swallowed this metaphorical kimbap and, in the name of professionalism and for the sake of my students, had pasted a smile on my face.

I'm a teacher, afterall. 

This is essentially part of my job description. 

However, in other spheres in my life, I wanted and expected a break. I wanted to be at a place that remained stationary; to be around people who I didn't need to pretend to be okay in front of. That or just to be in my bedroom, tucked under my increasingly-thickening covers with the lights off. 

Nobody coerced me to go but the multiple urgings and reminders and special looks from different people all made it clear that I was to be nowhere else but in attendance. So I went, not wishing to offend or disappoint anyone. 

The following is a photo story of this day. 

HURGIRSU SERVING SULFUR DUCK IN GIJANG

We took two vans and a car, with Russel and me riding in Pastor/Professor Gabriel's car with his family! Here, you see his beautiful wife and daughters checking out a huge pumpkin and other vegetables growing around the Traditionally Korean-themed restaurant. Probably my favorite photo of the day before my phone died 

INTRODUCING MY SWEET KAYLA
This is the adorably smart, dimpled, and curly-haired Kayla, Professor Gabriel's older daughter. She adores me and stuck by my side throughout the car ride, the meal, and our exploration of this place, as well as the car ride back home. Half-joking, her mother commented to me before we headed to the restaurant that she had come to terms with the fact that,

"Today, I am not her mother." 

ON TRADING IN YOUR MOTHER AND FATHER, ON LEAVING YOUR FAMILY BEHIND

I giggled, remembering the few times during my own childhood when  I had respectfully attempted to temporarily trade in my mother and father for another set of parents or family. At 4 years old, I clearly remember reassuring my mom that I would be back shortly (a week or so, or even within a couple of days, if she was lucky), and to please not forget that I was Mimi, their daughter. My mom would help a little as I very-independently set about trying to fold and pack my few possessions in a tiny plastic bag. Regretfully-yet-eagerly, I waved goodbye to my mom as I ascended the stairs to our neighbor's house, a floor above ours. She would wave back, increasing my sadness at having to leave home. 

Within a matter of a few hours, our good neighbors would return me home, agitated and in denial of the fact that I had been crying for nearly my whole sojourn due to homesickness, and too proud to actually return home on my own when I had been so willful in leaving. 

All of these childhood memories flooded my mind in a second with no introduction, no conclusion, and certainly no transitions.

From the driver's seat, Prof. Gabriel turned my direction in the backseat and reported that Kayla always talks about me. 

Prof Gabriel: Just this morning, she said, "Daddy, Daddy! Mimi is SOOO beautiful!" 

Really? Just out of nowhere?

Just out of nowhere!

Hmm. Cool!

BEING THOUGHT OF AND BEING THOUGHT WELL OF, THESE ARE HUGE!
I squeezed Kayla's hand a bit and smiled straight ahead, not wishing to make the little girl feel embarrassed. Her daddy's report cheered me immensely because she had not said it to me directly, to compliment me. She had just said it as a sort of morning declaration (or at least this is what it appears to me, hehe). And while it certainly doesn't hurt that Kayla thinks I am beautiful, I was more touched by the fact that this little girl thinks of me and, not only that, but also thinks well of me. Accurate or not, she believes the best in me and expects the best of me. 

The rest of the ride (and the rest of the day) was easier after hearing this simple thing (thanks Prof!). 

The girls gathered water from this basin. In the hot, noonday sun, the shimmering water in the basin looked enticing. I crouched down about to get a handful of water to splash on my forearms when I noticed a dead earthworm at the bottom.

Hmmm, no thanks!

For some reason, the kids seemed blind to its presence, so, in an effort to help preserve their carefree play, I didn't mention it (though I did keep a careful eye on any child who would attempt to drink the water). *Shudder*

Ariel, Kayla's younger sister, turned 5 today! We carried around a cake for her, but had to wait until later in the afternoon to sing her Happy Birthday. She was in good cheer all day, except at one point where she had gotten lost and tumbled back into the area where the rest of the adults were still eating, crying and clinging to her mom.

Once again, memories flooded my mind. The little girls are reminding me a lot of my own family, and childhood, and - I will spare you the details.

The famous Sulfur Duck served with a large pumpkin! This was very delicious!

A view of the outside. Such a sunny day!

Ariel dispensing gum to any and everybody who asked for some

Enjoying each others' company as we prepared to take a group photo under the shade of a 350-year-old tree!

 Deacon Yu assisting his father towards the rest of the group

 The beginning of our walk around the restaurant grounds (it was not an ordinary restaurant)

Where they store all kinds of ingredients for cooking!

Rounding a corner to find this view

Old kitchenware and appliances

I love these hanging vegetables!

Ariel looking cute running around and playing with her sister

Entering a building with some merchandise for sale, and a slew of artifacts on display

Hey, these look familiar!

Kayla liked being rocked on this rocking chair. Unfortunately, it's rocking capacity was extremely limited due to design and placement. We visited a mini zoo (yes, there was even a mini zoo attached to this place), and the kids had a great time harvesting nearby leaves and feeding them to the guinea pigs and rabbits - in complete violation of a sign that said not to feed the animals...(In my defense, the sign was in Korean, erm).

FEELING "AT HOME" WITH SOMEONE
I did not get the relaxing Day Off that I wanted, but I welcomed the ebb and flow of memories of home that today brought, as well as appreciated the time I had to create more memories with the little girls. It's amazing how one of their facial expressions (lit with happiness or tear-streaked with distress) can take me back in one snap of a finger. On the way home, Kayla fell asleep beside me, pressing uncomfortably against my left ribcage, but so comfortable- and peaceful looking while she slept in the crook of my arm that I couldn't bear to move her.

I hope this girl will always feel at home with me and around me! Today has been a blessing, sore rib cage and all. 

Sleepover With My Korean Host Sisters During Korea's Foundation Day!

My adorable sister Seo Yeon, whose cuteness, adorableness, and mannerisms remind me so much of Emily.

Thanks to Korea's Foundation Day, we have a three-day weekend to do as we please! I made plans to see the Kim Family and spend some quality time with my first host parents and sisters. Unfortunately, my parents were headed to a couples retreat with their church so I was not able to spend time with them. However, yesterday, Friday, I met up with my sisters at the basement of Lotte Department Store and, from there, proceeded to do some "eye shopping," wandering arm-in-arm through throngs of people enjoying the Busan International Film Festival (or BIFF, for short), looking for a place to eat lunch, and finding it at a second-floor niche called Mom's Touch somewhere in Nampo-dong.

MOM'S TOUCH CHICKEN BURGER REVELATION
Immediately, I saw a fast-food counter, and fries and burgers on the overhead menu. My sisters assured me that I would love the chicken burger - which did sound good from the description. I sat down completely unprepared for this chicken thigh burger to blow my mind. It was so delicious! I couldn't believe how whole, full, real, and scrumptious the chicken tasted. I have grown accustomed to mediocre meals, especially at fast-food joints, but this experience was worth a mini review. Mini review done.

KOREAN PATBINGSU VS FILIPINO HALO-HALO

After that, Seo Yeon, Ju Hyeon and I walked around some more holding hands and making me remember what it feels like to have sisters again. We had some strawberry patbingsu for dessert at Cafe Benne (which they pronounce as Cafe Beh-neh, and not "Bean," which I thought was the correct pronunciation. If they are right, then everything I know about the world has now effectively been thrown into question).

I discovered that Seo Yeon does not like red bean, and was all too glad to eat the red bean portions of the patbingsu. For the record, though this patbingsu was delicious, it has nothing on the Filipino halo-halo, and especially Mama's Filipino halo-halo.

As you can see from the pictures, there is absolutely no comparison!

Shy Seo Yeon. We were waiting for Ju Hyeon to bring up our order of patbingsu from the first floor of Cafe Bene

View of the other stores crowding all along Nampo

My beautiful sisters!

SISTERS BEING SISTERS IN A CANDY STORE
After dessert, we went inside a store selling foreign candies and other goodies. I bought a few items for my sisters, whose looks told me they would take every item home with them if they could. Seo Yeon was so excited about everything and asked Ju Hyeon if she could buy this or that. Ju Hyeon, being the responsible older sister, would peek into the waller their mother had given her charge of and, with a grim face, solemnly shake her head, telling an increasingly sad-faced Seo Yeon, No. Another bag of gummy bears or mint chocolates was not in the budget.

I didn't know whether to laugh or cry upon seeing this mostly-silent exchange between the sisters. I grabbed the packages and plopped them down on the counter before either one of them could object (because they are fond of objecting). They were both so happy that it made my heart glad!

I am not usually one to spoil the younger generations, but this was a rare occasion.

I wish the occasion wasn't so rare though. I am missing my sisters from home and can only hope to show them love and care through what I do for my sisters here in Korea.

SEARCHING FOR THE PERFECT LIP TINT

After this, we went inside tens of cosmetic stores looking for the perfect lip tint. Seo Yeon and Ju Hyeon have flawless, porcelain skin, so they were not interested in powders or foundations, blushes or bronzers. For extra special occasions, such as days when they're not in school, they will tint their lips and put on circle contact lenses.

 

WATCHING BEGIN AGAIN AT LOTTE CINEMA

We went to Lotte Cinema and watched Begin Again with Keira Knightly. This was not necessarily my cinematic cup of tea, but seeing as how the last movie we saw (a thriller set on a hijacked airplane) practically scarred poor Seo Yeon, I remained quiet as they chose the movie. Like the burger place, I was pleasantly surprised to enjoy this movie! I left the theater wanting to write music, play an instrument, and sing, sing, sing!

DRINKING BUBBLE TEA RUSSEL'S TREAT
We met up with Russel around 10 p.m. and, half-asleep, sipped on bubble tea that he insisted on treating the girls to. They are usually very shy, but their shyness slowly melted because of his easy humor.

We took the bus home, and the girls ordered chicken(!) for more movie-watching. I was practically asleep on the living room floor so I warned the girls that I might not be able to stay awake through the whole movie, and I was so full from our various meals, desserts, and snackings that I also objected to having any part of the chicken.

ORDERING A MIDNIGHT SNACK OF CHICKEN
However, when the girls opened the lid containing the freshly-delivered chicken, all of my protestations melted into nothingness. I dove right in, rekindling my life-long love affair with chicken.

WATCHING RATATOUILLE UNTIL 3 IN THE MORNING
The girls settled on watching the 2007 animated film Ratatouille, which I was sure I was going to have to endure for the girls' sake. However, at three in the morning, I was the only one still awake, inspired to cook up magic in the kitchen, and chuckling to myself in the dark living room - the girls having long fallen asleep on various uncomfortable-looking positions around me.

I woke up first and relished in the quiet of my first home here in Korea. I have grown to love my second home, but often think of this place and this family and the love they showed me all of last year and even until now. It feels incredible to be reconnected.

Seo Yeon told me last night that Mom was so pleased with the photo album I gave them as a gift that she can often be seen flipping through the book, admiring each image page by page, and sighing over what a talented photographer and awesome daughter I am. [Insert happy sigh and what remains of my melting heart here].

Dressing Up in a Hanbok for the CamKodian Inaugural Ceremony at HJC & My Multiple Roles as Greeter, Singer, and Dishwasher for the Evening

Since I came back from the states, all of the talk at Holy Joy's English Service seems to revolve around the Cambodian-Korean NGO they are working very hard to establish by next year. From zero Cambodians in attendance on Sundays, we now have anywhere between 5-20 in attendance during the worship or singing portion. After the singing, they are whisked off to another floor and another room at Holy Joy, where, I presume, they receive more information about how they can help make this NGO a successful reality for them, their families, their communities, and any other Cambodian who immigrates to Korea. 

During David Jibsanim's announcements, I learn that a few of the church leaders make regular (aka daily) visits to a location closer to the Cambodians' place of residence. There they hold Bible studies, and receive Korean language instruction - among other things beneficial to them (like help with establishing a Cambodian restaurant). Hearing this made me feel better, knowing that there was a steady and personal effort to connect with this particular group of foreigners in Korea. I applaud this church's deeply-concerted work to reach people, especially foreigners in the area, and share with them the love of Christ through practical means.

However, because I don't always understand what is going on around me and because a lot is lost in translation during service, I have more or less been feeling bewildered these past few months at Holy Joy - feeling excluded as another foreigner who does not share the same nationality as those on whose behalf all of the planning and outreach is aimed; silenced by the guilt I feel at the realization that my self-centeredness is likely preventing me from sharing in the awesome work that my church is doing to welcome others the way it has welcomed me (well, minus the establishment of a Filipino-American NGO, of course); and feeling a bit like it is only a matter of time before the English Service disappears altogether. 

With all of that said, I am doing what I can to combat feelings of not belonging by, at least, being a part of the behind-the-scenes work. 

THE CAMKODIAN INAUGURAL CEREMONY

For this event, I was asked to wear a Korean hanbok and greet our guests at the entrance of Holy Joy. With the help of a jibsanim and a samonim, I was ready within a few minutes.

Most of the people in attendance at tonight's CamKodian Inaugural event held at the basement sanctuary of Holy Joy Center

Cambodian Leaders visiting Korea. Church leaders took it upon themselves
to give them a tour of Busan and of Yeongdo upon their arrival

When the ceremony started at 4:00 p.m., I hurried over to the stage to sing a couple of songs.

Professor Gabriel and me singing

The senior pastor speaking to his foreign guests through a Cambodian translator.
Of course, since everything was in Korean-Cambodian, Cambodian-Korean, I had no way of understanding
any of the great things that were being said

A korean girl playing a traditional instrument

The extremely talented son of David Jibsanim performing for the evening

This couple sang beautifully!

Receptionists

Traditional Cambodian dance

Harmonica players

Our singers, who had traveled from Seoul that day and who returned to Seoul that very night back to their studies!

Dinner on the 8th floor

Saying grace before the meal

Some of our beautiful guests

Meanwhile, I had changed out of my hanbok and had donned on an apron, washing hundreds of dishes this evening. This kitchen was my dream kitchen, with its huge and deep sinks, flexible and powerful faucets, and ample storage and elbow room!

Out of all the roles I played this afternoon and evening, I was most comfortable and most confident in my role as dishwasher

This is the view of Nampo-dong just outside the church balcony 

I wish the CamKodia NGO the best! With this kind of dedication, I can see nothing but success in its future.

All Photos Courtesy of David Daeil Lee 

Post-Dinner Evening Stroll in Yeongdo's Coastal Trail with Host Mom

CHUSEOK HOLIDAY BEGINS!

Today is the start of my 5-day Chuseok vacation! The days leading up to this break were filled with questions about what my plans were.

With great excitement, I told other teachers that my plans were: ...*drum-roll please*...

Absolutely Nothing! 

DEALING WITH THE GUILT OF HAVING FREE TIME

I am free! This past year, I have struggled mightily against the guilt of being free to just relax. Being free to pause in my tracks. Being free to not have a schedule. Being free to not have an agenda. Being free for self-care. This past year, I have struggled with this peculiar guilt and am still learning and implementing ways to safeguard my sanity, my health, my time, and my energy. 

THE EVENING STROLL

MY SATURDAY CONSISTED OF ME...

...waking up slow and getting up late, eating brunch while Skyping my sweet Mama in Washington, and then spending the rest of the day reading, napping, watching video clips, napping, pinning parts of my dream home on Pinterest, napping again, waking up for dinner with my Korean host mom, washing dishes, doing laundry, and then taking a walk together afterwards.  

The evening was beautiful - from the moment we stepped outside the apartment complex and saw the near-full moon to the very end, when we sat facing the twinkling lights of the Busan coastline and chatted in the near-dark. I made verbal observations about how much safer Korea is compared to the Philippines (or even compared to the U.S.). 

THE SAFE HAVEN THAT IS KOREA

Walking around at night, I don't feel like I have to constantly look behind my back, or remember my Arnis or Taekwondo, or keep a deathly-grip on my smartphone in case it is snatched. I feel safe here! This safety gives me more freedom to enjoy the walk, breathe in the scenes and the fresh air in one gulp, and just appreciate Connie's brisk walk and personality.

There was a small group out for a night picnic and actually grilling something delicious in the dark. The smoke and the aroma added a touch of warmth to the tingling coolness of the night air. Among many others, we passed by a young family, the father carrying a baby strapped across his torso, while his wife walked arm-in-arm beside him. The sight of this family warmed and gladdened my heart! At one point, Connie collided with what looked to be a disoriented wasp and ended up squashing it with her next step by accident. Very unfortunate fellow.

We returned to the apartment to find that my host dad had arrived, and was hanging our clothes up to dry in the balcony - quite an unusual sight in Korea, I think, especially among the older married folks! 

Living By the "Don't Compare" Mantra Outside of the Fulbright Family & Encouraging 2nd Host Mom to Stop Comparing Herself to 1st Host Mom

THE "DON'T COMPARE" MANTRA
What we always hear in Fulbright is "Don't Compare" - referring to ETAs who might be tempted to look at each others' differing living accommodations and teaching situations and become discouraged or resentful of the lot they've been given during their grant year. The message makes so much sense, is so often forgotten and just as often recalled that it can be heard reverberating in various forms throughout the year - in Facebook posts, social media captions, hashtags, blog posts, and during coffee dates, and sleepy conference heart-to-hearts.

Comparison comes naturally, which is why we should be all the more vigilant in keeping ourselves from being caught in its unhappy trap. I struggle against it, and so do others - among them the second host mom I am living with now, who, upon hearing about my first host mom's mad cooking skills, has been quick and unrelenting in criticizing what she produces in the kitchen and places on the table.

BATTLE OF THE HOST MOMS
My second host mom also works in education, so we both get home right about the same time. She is always apologizing to me for not having dinner prepared on time, or, if dinner is prepared, for not having delicious and nutritious enough dinner.

I have no idea what she is talking about.

Her cooking is delicious and nutritious! In keeping with a truly Korean cuisine, there are always at least five side dishes on the table besides soup and rice. She also never fails to serve fruit for dessert. In the U.S. "dessert" for me was this exciting event that involved cake or ice cream, brownies or walnut cookies. Or all of those combined. Though I miss this kind of rich, chocolately dessert, I much prefer the fruit desserts because there is never guilt from indulging. (Something to tuck away for my future family!).

I am not very verbal when giving praises, but since moving here I have learned to be more so. If the soup tastes like something I had been craving for but couldn't describe, I tell her. If she peeled the apples with what I consider unusual dexterity, I tell her. If the seafood she served on the table is cooked to perfection, I tell her! 

I don't want my host mom to compare herself to my first host mom. It hurts me to hear her say negative things about the food she cooks, and am trying my best to convince her that what she's provided for me is enough. More than enough. 

Lately, I have taken to hanging around her when she's in the kitchen. Just hanging around - looking for opportunities to affirm her - however random and small. This is the context of the video embedded above. I was so interested in the way she made kimbap! (Also recorded it for the sake of my mom back in the States, who is always asking for recipes of Korean dishes she sees on my Facebook posts!). 

In quick sum, don't compare, folks! You are enough. You are more than enough. 

My Second First Day as a High School English Teacher at Yeongdo!

Yeongdo Girls' High School's first ever woman principal with her ETAs from 2011 and 2013.
Missing Andrea Tang (2012) from this picture!

THE RHYTHM OF RUSHING AND SLOWING DOWN

For the new school year, my walk started from the house of my new homestay family. The path was windy - familiar in that I had traversed it by bus countless of times before, and unfamiliar because I was much lower on the ground and slower on foot, allowing me to see and notice and consider things I had not before.

I was approaching my school from the opposite direction. If I had not been rushing, I might have had opportunity to entertain such things as have from time to time fought to accompany me along the rode: Nervousness, Anxiety, Fear. 

Sometimes it's the rushing through life that saves me from so much mental apprehension. Of course, with these negative feelings come the positives: Excitement, Hope, and a Fire that grows within me with each step that leads me closer to my destination. 

Today has been a special first day being back:

1. I found out I have a new Fulbright co-teacher -  an English teacher with whom I worked last year as a classroom co-teacher. She is beautiful, sweet, and soft-spoken but has been away for a semester. I am glad to be working with her again and am excited for the new dynamic ahead of us!
2. A former ETA (2011) came to visit! Hogan Medlin, Yeongdo Girls' High School's first ever native English teacher came to say hi to the principal (who is very fond of him), the teachers he worked with (who were talking about his visit 6 months before it happened), and his students (who are now in the 3rd grade). We had communicated via email during my first year as an ETA and he had been quite generous with tips on how to ease my experience at YGHS. What a real pleasure to have met you, Hogan! You set the bar high and I couldn't be more grateful for the challenge!

English teachers and principal with Mr. Hogan Medlin, future major world-changer!

Trip to Boseong-gun in South Jeolla Province with My 1st Homestay Family

TRAVELING FROM INCHEON TO BUSAN
After a relatively incident-free direct flight from Seattle to Seoul/Incheon, I arrived back in Busan very early Friday morning. The day was spent more or less sleeping after a sleepless night of waiting for the airport bus limousine to arrive at 10:30 p.m., tossing and turning on said bus for the whole five hours of travel back down to Busan, and then standing streetside at Nopo-dong for 30 minutes trying to hail a taxi in the rain.

To be fair, it was mostly Russel who stood streetside trying to hail a taxi in the rain while I sat dry with my luggage under an awning. Thirty minutes more of commute brought us to the home of my new homestay family, where I didn't even bother to unpack my toiletries before crashing on the newly-made bed they had prepared for me. 

WELCOME BACK TO KOREA! DINNER
Fast-forward to the evening and I am woken up and told by my new host mom, Connie, that she has invited a handful of folks from church and my former host family for dinner! What a thoughtful gesture!

FIRST HOST FAMILY STEALING ME FROM MY SECOND HOST FAMILY 
No, not really, but...

During dinner, my host family convinced me to go on a family trip with them. When? That very night. I was exhausted and disoriented, but this was the same trip my family had been wanting to take me on for what seemed like all of last year but it never materialized. So I said, Yes!, packed a change of clothes, toiletries, and a gift I had prepared for them from the States. My host sisters' excitement served as a kind of energy injection into my system.

TRAVELING FROM BUSAN TO BOSEONG
We traveled for three hours, arriving at my host dad's sister's house a few minutes shy of midnight. Her house was beautiful and comfortable and somewhere in Boseong County, a place famous for its green tea leaves. I slept soundly with Juhyeon and Seoyeon and woke up the next day to a full day of adventures! I will post more on this trip later but, for now, enjoy this video I created through SnapMovie (thanks for the new obsession Juhyeon!), offering a brief glimpse into our afternoon coming home that day.